Good news for homeowners planning energy-saving home improvements! You could get a federal tax credit (Energy Efficient Home Improvement Tax Credit).
A tax credit is a reduction of your federal income tax. If you had taxes withheld, you may get a refund. If you owe taxes, it may reduce your tax liability.
The best news? A wood or pellet stove from WoodstovePro qualifies as an energy-saving improvement.
You can claim 30% of your cost, up to $2,000, if you buy an eligible wood-burning stove or pellet stove. The 30% includes the price of the stove and the cost to install it. You must have the unit installed by the Dec. 31st deadline to receive the credit.
To claim the tax credit, be sure the stove you are buying has the EPA certification. It must also have an HHV (Higher Heating Value) efficiency rating of 75% or more. This is important because a stove can have EPA Certification, and be very efficient, but not be at this 75% level.
The goal of EPA certification is to limit the amount of particulate matter (PM) a wood stove releases. The 2020 standards say a new wood burning unit should not release more than 2.5 grams per hour of particles. Learn more about wood stove efficiency at the EPA website.
An independent, accredited laboratory tests the stoves to be sure a wood or pellet stove is following the guidelines. You can verify a stove's certification status by checking its permanent EPA label or searching the EPA's database.
EPA-certified stoves produce less pollution, are more efficient, and are safer to use.
Be sure to have these records ready when tax time comes around. You will need these whether you do your own taxes or have a professional tax preparer handle them.
We have compiled a list of all the wood stoves on woodstovepro.com that qualify for the IRS tax credit. You can click directly from this document to the stove(s) you want to know more about.
Wood Stoves that qualify for the 30% (up to $2000) Tax Credit.
This list has been updated with 17 qualifying Drolet stoves as of Sept. 25.
We have done the same thing for our pellet stoves as well.
Pellet Stoves that qualify for the 30% (up to $2000) Tax Credit
WoodstovePro, and its employees or contractors, are not tax professionals. This article is to let you know about a great opportunity. Do not consider it tax advice, which should come from a professional.
If you don't see the stove you want, or a brand you're looking for (like Vermont Castings), contact us at info@woodstovepro.com or call 888-418-0005. We can help you learn more about the tax credit, wood stoves, fireplaces, or other hearth products.
Gas fireplaces are a popular and efficient way to enjoy the warmth and ambiance of a fire with the flip of a switch. This article answers frequently asked questions about operation, maintenance, and safety.
Gas heating products—fireplaces, gas stoves, or gas logs— burn natural gas or liquid propane. These fuels flow through a connecting line to the fireplace. The ignition switch opens the line to let the gas flow over the pilot light and begin the burning process. The lit gas produces flames and heat to provide you a beautiful fire.
Not all gas fireplaces need a chimney. They come in vent-free, direct-vent, and b-vent versions.
Manufacturers design vent-free products to burn cleanly and release minimal emissions. They do not require a chimney. Direct-vent and b-vent fireplaces, however, do need a chimney or other vent pipe to remove combustion byproducts.
Proper installation and regular maintenance are the key to safely enjoying your gas-fueled fireplace. Sensors and safety switches monitor the fireplace and shut off the unit if they detect a problem. These extras help increase the product's reliability and enhance your peace of mind.
By design, vent-free models operate efficiently without a chimney. However, they may release small amounts of carbon monoxide and other byproducts. Be sure there is adequate ventilation in the room, and have your fireplace inspected regularly.
Manufacturers recommend shutting off your fireplace at night. Even with safety features, overnight use could pose risks, such as overheating or reduced oxygen levels if using a vent-free model.
The pilot light, however, should remain lit during winter months on millivolt models. Leaving the pilot light on makes it easier to relight the burner and helps maintain warmth in the fireplace. Electronic ignition models will shut the pilot on and off with each use.
Only millivolt models require manual ignition of the pilot light before the first use. To light the pilot, locate the control knob, usually marked with "Off," "Pilot," and "On." Turn the knob to "Pilot" while pressing down to release gas. Using a long lighter or built-in igniter, ignite the pilot flame while holding the knob down for 30 seconds, then release.
To turn off the pilot light, use the same gas control knob and set it to "Off." This shuts off the gas supply to the pilot light. To relight a pilot light, follow the same steps as lighting the pilot.
You can start enjoying a cozy fire by simply turning a knob, flipping a switch, or using your remote control. For millivolt models, after the pilot is lit, turn the control knob for the main burner to the "on" position. These steps will generally only be required once during a season for millivolt models with remote controls or wall switches. You can then use the designated button or switch to start the fireplace.
No, the manufacturers did not design these fireplaces to burn wood. Burning wood could pose a safety risk, or your unit may be damaged by this unintended use. Gas logs can provide a real wood look if a wood-burning fireplace fits your decor.
If burning wood is important to you, certain gas fireplaces can be converted to wood-burning units. It may require significant modifications performed by a professional. Consult with your woodstovepro master hearth professional at info@woodstovepro.com to explore your options.
Make sure the glass is completely cool before cleaning. Use a soft cloth and a fireplace glass cleaner to remove soot and residue. Using the wrong product can cause damage to the glass coating on the inside of the glass on direct vent fireplaces. Avoid abrasive cleaners, as they can scratch the surface and obscure the view of your beautiful fire.
A gas fireplace uses approximately 20,000 to 60,000 BTUs per hour. This translates to approximately 0.2 to 0.6 therms of natural gas per hour or 1 to 2 gallons of propane. The rate of gas usage depends on variables like the size and settings of your fireplace.
Most gas fireplaces are highly efficient, with direct vent models achieving up to 85% efficiency. They provide consistent heat with minimal energy loss. The rule of thumb is often the more efficient, the less realistic. Some vented logs are very inefficient but will appear quite realistic. Vent-free logs, however, are very efficient, nearly 100%, but aren’t nearly as realistic.
Millivolt gas fireplaces do not require electricity to operate, as they use a standing pilot or battery-powered ignition. Electronic ignition models, as well as models with fans or remote controls, may need electricity for those features. Most electronic ignition fireplaces have battery backups in case of power outages, but these systems won’t operate the blower or lights.
A gas fireplace can reach temperatures of 300°F to 1,000°F, depending on its design and settings. The glass front may also become extremely hot. You should keep pets and children from touching the fireplace while in use.
Regulations require manufacturers to include a screen front on direct-vent fireplaces to prevent severe burns. The units will still get hot enough to cause painful burns.
With proper maintenance, a gas fireplace can last 10 to 25 years, depending on the model and usage.
A gas fireplace can have an unusual smell for several reasons. It may be dust burning off, cleaning products, new paint curing (when newly installed), or a gas leak. You should consult a professional if you notice an odor that is new or concerning
Certified fireplace technicians or HVAC professionals typically service gas fireplaces. Regular maintenance includes cleaning, inspection, and performance checks.
If we didn't cover your question here, please get in touch with us at info@woodstovepro.com or 888-418-0005.
A fireplace is more than a source of warmth; it’s a centerpiece of relaxation and ambiance in many homes. However, achieving optimal efficiency and enjoyment from your fireplace requires selecting the right wood, grate, and stacking method.
Your indoor fireplace needs "seasoned" hardwood for the best burn. Seasoned wood contains less than 20% moisture, reducing the likelihood of incomplete combustion, which causes smoke. Hardwood varieties such as oak, maple, ash, and birch burn longer and produce more heat. They also create less creosote buildup compared to softwoods.
These dense woods ensure a consistent burn and are ideal for maintaining a cozy atmosphere. Ash and oak are the hardwoods particularly known for their clean burn. Softwoods like pine and fir, while easier to ignite tend to burn faster and produce more smoke.
Softwoods are not the only cause for smokey fires. Green, or unseasoned, wood will also create excessive smoke due to its high moisture content. You should wait six months to a year after cutting fresh wood before burning it.
The best moisture content for fireplace wood is between 15% and 20%. Wood with this moisture level burns efficiently, producing less smoke and creosote. You can measure the moisture content using a moisture meter, available at most hardware stores.
Keep your wood stored in a dry, ventilated area for six months to a year to ensure proper seasoning.
A well-designed fireplace grate is essential for efficient wood burning. The best grates are made from heavy-duty cast iron or steel. They can better withstand high temperatures and prolonged use.
Fires burn more evenly and stay lit when your grate has elevated bars that allow better airflow. Choose a grate size that fits your fireplace dimensions and has added airflow features for improved combustion.
If scent is a priority, aromatic woods can enhance your fireplace experience. Cherry wood emits a mild and fruity fragrance, while applewood offers a sweet, smoky aroma often associated with barbecues. For a stronger scent, hickory delivers a robust, earthy fragrance. Cedar creates a cozy and inviting atmosphere thanks to its fresh, spicy aroma.
Your fireplace size determines the best size for your logs. Generally, you can split wood into pieces that are about 16 to 18 inches long and 3 to 6 inches thick. This ensures a comfortable fit, but still allows airflow around each piece for efficient combustion. Uniform sizing also makes stacking and storage easier.
The key to maximizing heat lies in proper stacking techniques. Begin with a well-ventilated base by crisscrossing smaller pieces of kindling to encourage airflow.
Stack larger logs horizontally on top, leaving space between each piece for air circulation. Arrange the wood loosely rather than tightly packing it, as sufficient airflow promotes a steady and hot burn.
Whether you prioritize heat, fragrance, or efficiency, these best practices ensure your fireplace experience is both enjoyable and practical.
For more tips on building your best fire, contact the hearth professionals at info@woodstovepro.com.
An electric fireplace provides the warmth and cozy ambiance of a fire without using wood or gas. It can be the perfect solution for someone when a wood or gas fireplace is not practical.
Electric fireplaces use a heating element, often combined with a fan, to distribute warmth into a room. This is similar to how a space heater operates.
Many electric fireplaces come with adjustable heat settings. You control the amount of heat based on room size and personal comfort.
Electric fireplaces are generally considered energy-efficient. The amount of electricity they use can vary based on several factors. The size of your fireplace, local electricity rates, and how many hours you run the fireplace will all affect your electric costs.
On average, using your fireplace for heating can be around 12-15 cents per hour. If you use the fireplace for ambiance without heat, the cost is significantly lower.
You should buy your electric fireplace from a reputable source (like woodstovepro.com) that has certified hearth professionals to help you select the best and safest option for your situation. Here are some safety facts for you to consider.
Yes, many TV stands are specifically designed to hold fireplaces. Be sure to use a TV stand made for a fireplace for the safest possible setup.
No, most people consider them easy to use. You usually only need to push a button to turn it on or to adjust the heat and flame. Many also come with a remote control.
You can often install one by simply plugging it in. Electric fireplaces do not need venting, so they can be used in almost any room in the house.
Some models, like built-ins or those with higher wattage, may require special wiring. You should hire a professional electrician in those cases.
Woodstovepro.com's experts are happy to help. Contact them at info@woodstovepro.com or 888-418-0005.
Stove pipe, technically called connector pipe, connects your stove to a chimney or vent system to send exhaust gases out of your house. It's typically made of a single layer of heavy-gauge, cold-rolled steel, and it is often known as black pipe. It is a crucial component of a wood stove—meaning you have to have it. Sometimes double-walled black pipe is used in place of single-wall black pipe to enable closer clearances to combustibles, and although it is a double-walled pipe, it is still considered stove pipe or connector pipe.
Stove pipes are not the same thing as chimney pipes although you frequently hear them discussed together. Stove pipes are for interior use only and are smaller in outside diameter than chimney pipes, which are typically installed outdoors. Chimney pipes are made of a double- or triple-layer metal and provide insulation to keep heat from escaping.
It depends. All solid fuel fireplaces (wood, pellet, coal) must be vented to the outside, which requires pipe. Direct-vent gas fireplaces or gas log sets also need piping to vent the carbon monoxide.
Electric fireplaces and vent-free gas fireplaces or gas log sets do not need piping.
Temperatures for wood stoves have many variables such as the type of wood you're burning, solid fuel moisture content, and the amount of airflow to your fire. For peak efficiency and to keep creosote from building up in your chimney, the ideal temperature range is between 400°F and 600°F.
Burning too hot can damage your stove, and burning too cool can cause creosote to build up in your chimney. Don't guess on your temperature; use a stovepipe thermometer to be sure you're in range.
This is not a simple answer. There are many variables involved in the chimney you need for your wood-burning stoves and fireplaces, and it's best to talk it over with an expert before buying your chimney material. We are happy to help you find what you need, call us at 888-418-0005.
All-fuel chimney pipe is (as the name implies) designed to be used with all fire fuel types: wood, gas, pellets, or biofuels. Many companies manufacture all-fuel chimney pipe, which is also known as Class A chimney pipe. Class A is an insulated chimney pipe that comes in a variety of diameters to match the specific heating source or appliance. Some all-fuel chimneys are made of stainless steel and feature twist-lock couplings for quick installation.
Often the term Class A is used in reference to insulated double walled chimney systems such as Metal Fab Temp Guard, DuraVent DuraTech, Duravent DuraPlus, Selkirk Ultra Temp, and Selkirk SuperPro pipe.
No, duct pipe is not built to handle the intense heat produced by a wood stove, which can lead to damage and potential fire hazards. Duct pipe is often galvanized steel which will create dangerous off gases when under intense heat. Chimney and some connector pipes are made with multiple wall layers for better insulation, while duct pipes are typically single-wall. Plus, using the wrong pipe for your wood stove may violate local building codes.
If you have only 6 to 18 inches of clearance between your wall and your stove, you need to use a double-wall pipe because it is air insulated. The outside of double-wall pipe does not radiate heat like single-wall pipe and is always recommended for use in a mobile home.
Double-wall pipe typically
If you have a clearance of 18" or more, you can choose either single-wall or double-wall. Single-wall pipe typically
A wood stove needs a stovepipe, also called a chimney connector or black pipe, to connect the stove to the outside of the building:
A stovepipe is used to connect the stove to a masonry chimney or prefabricated metal chimney. Insulated chimney is the only pipe that can pass through combustibles and can be used outside. The stovepipe is sometimes referred to as a connector. Single-wall, 24-gauge or thicker, corrosion-resistant steel stovepipe is recommended. If the stovepipe diameter is over 10 inches, a heavier gauge metal must be used.
Most stoves do not include venting pipe. It will need to be purchased separately.
The chimney should extend at least 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof surface. It should also be at least 2 feet higher than any part of the building within a horizontal distance of 10 feet.
To calculate your necessary chimney height, please read our article The 10-Foot, 2-Foot, 3-Foot Rule.
A clean chimney is vital to the efficiency and safety of your wood-burning fireplace or stove. It's a big job that requires time, knowledge, and special equipment. We recommend hiring a professional chimney sweep in your area; however, there are products and tutorials available for doing the job yourself.
Is there a question you have that you didn't see here? We're happy to help find the answer for you. Contact us at info@woodstovepro.com or 888-418-0005.
Call us at 888-418-0005 or email info@woodstovepro.com to discuss which option is best for your situation. You can also visit our YouTube channel to learn more.
While there is never a good time for a house fire, the holidays seem like the worst time. You have plans for get-togethers. You have the house beautifully decorated. You have all those wrapped presents under the Christmas tree. You are prepared for a magical time - not a house fire.
Protect your home and your loved ones during this festive season with these tips for using your wood-burning fireplace or wood stove.
Burning wood in your fireplace or fireplace insert adds a cozy element to the holidays. Imagine you and your family unwrapping your gifts beside its warmth and glow. By following the above safety tips, you can be sure that your holiday season is truly a happy one.
Still looking for the perfect wood burning fireplace for your home? Call our certified hearth professional at 888-418-0005 or email info@woodstovepro.com.
Stainless steel is a general term for corrosion-resistant steel that contains a minimum of 10.5 percent chromium. Varying additions of nickel, molybdenum, titanium, niobium, and other elements may also be present. The mechanical properties and behavior of various types of steel depend on their composition. Choosing the appropriate steel grade is vital to success in any application.[1]
For our purposes, we’re focusing on ferritic and austenitic stainless steels, although there are several types (Figure 1). Ferritic stainless steels are plain chromium stainless steels, usually with low carbon content. They are magnetic and have good ductility and resistance to corrosion and oxidation. They are generally resistant to stress corrosion cracking.[2] Ferritic stainless steel shares some traits with austenitic stainless steel but contains no nickel, which makes it less expensive to manufacture. This allows for a lower-cost chimney pipe.
Austenitic stainless steels contain chromium and nickel with very low carbon content. They are non-magnetic but can become slightly magnetic when coldworded. Cold working also enhances their strength. Austenitic stainless steels have excellent corrosion resistance and good formabilit, weldability, and mechanical properties over a wide range of temperatures.[3] Adding nickel increases its corrosion resistance but also adds to the cost of the material.
Figure 2 shows us how austenitic stainless steels, 304 and 316, match up against ferritic stainless steels.[4] The chart shows us that 304 has better corrosion resistance than 430, but 316 is an even better choice for use with corrosive materials.
Stainless steel grades 304L, 316L, and 316Ti have altered compositions to achieve different attributes. In the case of 304L and 316L, the carbon has been reduced. Carbon strengthens austenite, so it is a useful alloying element in stainless steels used in applications like boiler tubes, which operate at high temperatures. Carbon has no other useful function and can reduce corrosion resistance under certain circumstances.[5] A titanium-stabilized version (316Ti) of 316 is sometimes used in components that require elevated temperature strength and corrosion resistance, such as flexible chimney liners.[6]
When deciding which chimney to purchase, it’s important to consider your budget and what fuel you will be burning. In most applications, 430 will do an excellent job and is cost-effective. Sometimes, however, you need a higher-grade stainless steel, such as when burning coal. This Pipe Comparison Chart shows you what type of stainless steel different manufacturers use for their pipes.
Woodstovepro.com carries DuraVent 6" DuraTech and 6" DuraPlus, 6" Metal Fab TempGuard, 6" Security Chimney Secure Temp ASHT and 6" Selkirk UltraTemp and GalvaTemp, and 6" SuperPro (many other sizes also available - 6" is a fairly common inner diameter pipe).
If you have any questions, please leave a comment or send us an email. We are always happy to help.
Written by Sean Summers, National Fireplace Institute (NFI) Master Hearth Certified Technician - WoodStovePro.com
Written by Sean Summers, National Fireplace Institute (NFI) Master Hearth Certified Technician - WoodStovePro.com
Roof pitch is simply a numerical expression of the steepness of a roof. In the U.S., this is usually represented by a fraction in which the numerator signifies the rise and the denominator the run. For example, if we have a roof that rises 4 inches over 12 inches of run, then we would denote it as a 4/12 pitch. Pitch can also be expressed in degrees and discussed as an angle (see Figure 1).
The calculation of pitch is fairly simple. If you have two tape measures, or rulers, you can find the pitch from the rooftop or inside your attic space. Refer to Figure 2 to see how to arrange your tools for measuring pitch.
Please remember to be cautious when working on your roof or unfinished attic space. If you still have questions, please leave a comment or send us an email. We are always happy to help.
Questions about this rule come up a lot, and there seems to be a lot of confusion about it. Thankfully, this standard is actually quite simple. In most cases, with just two pieces of information, you can calculate the height of your chimney on paper without ever having to climb on the roof.
Roof pitch is easily calculated, and if you don’t know how, read my article Understanding and Calculating Roof Pitch. Also, you’ll need the horizontal distance between the peak and the edge of the high side of the pipe (see Figure 1) where you plan your roof penetration. We’ll go over the math a little further down; first let’s go over the 10 and 2 rule (see Figure 2).
Most wood stove and factory-built fireplace manufacturers (and local building codes) will require that “the chimney must extend at least 2 feet above any portion of any structure within 10 feet (measured horizontally) and must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of its roof penetration.”**
Keep in mind there is generally a minimum chimney height requirement for the overall system (usually 15 feet, which sometimes includes connector pipe) that can affect the finished height of your chimney system. Other factors can influence the necessary height of the chimney such as “house stack effect” and high altitude. “Chimney height may need to be increased by 2-3% per 1000 feet of elevation.”** Although added height generally equates to stronger draft, there is a point where the system can become too long and over-drafting might occur, causing increased fuel consumption, hotter burn temperatures, and damage to your appliance.
Roof pitch is expressed as a ratio of rise over run. Rise is the length, expressed in inches, that the roofline travels upward over a 12-inch horizontal distance, which is known as the run. For example, a common pitch like 4/12 would mean that for every 12 inches of run, the roof rises 4 inches. So, if the 10-foot, 2-foot rule requires us to measure 10 feet to the nearest roofline, or structure, then we can use the rise to calculate a height requirement. Back to our example, over a run of 10 feet, the roof would rise 40 inches. Additionally, per our rule, we need to add 2 feet, or 24 inches, giving us a total height of 64 inches. So, take the top number of your roof pitch and multiply it by 10 then add 24, note Example 1. If your calculated required height falls below 36 inches (3 feet), then, as per our rule, it must be a minimum of 3 feet on the high side of the pipe penetration.
This calculation from Example 1 alone would give you a solid working height, but if you are close to your peak then you might have more pipe height than you actually need. If you can measure the horizontal distance between the peak and the edge of the high side of the pipe where you plan your roof penetration, you can use that to calculate your height in relation to your roof peak or ridgeline. Often you can measure this from inside the room where you are planning to install the stove or inside the attic space. Many people mistakenly think that the pipe always has to be 2 feet above the roof peak.
You are close to your eave and you find that your measurement is 18 feet from peak to penetration on a 4/12 pitch (see Figure 3). For 18 feet of run, you would have a rise of 72 inches. If the previous calculation results in the required height of 64 inches, we can see that the top of the pipe will not rise above the roof peak but would still meet the requirements of the rule. For the next example, you have a shorter chimney height. If your peak to penetration distance is 7 feet, you would have a rise of 28 inches. Per the 10 and 2 rule, once you are at the level of the peak, you only need to be 2 feet above it. So 28 inches plus 24 inches is a chimney height of only 52 inches. This reduces the actual required height by 12 inches from our previous calculation of 64 inches.
Please note that this rule doesn’t generally apply to pellet and gas vent systems. Hopefully this article helped you understand the 10 and 2 rule but if you still have questions, leave a comment or send us an email. We are always happy to help.
Written by Sean Summers, National Fireplace Institue (NFI) Master Hearth Technician - WoodstovePro.com
*This post is meant to be a guide so always consult your appliance owner’s manual and local code before planning your system.
**Woodburning Hearth System Reference Manual. Hearth Education Foundation. Dec. 2002 pg. 92
People have many reasons for deciding to purchase a wood stove. Everything from saving money to the nostalgia of growing up with a stove can play a role in the decision-making process. Many consumers are under-informed, however, when they begin their search for a wood stove. This article will guide your purchase of the perfect stove for your home.
Two basic types of wood stoves are on the market today - steel or cast iron. Manufacturing techniques vary between these metals, and the designs created by the unique metals will also be different.
To build a steel stove, manufacturers weld different gauges of steel together. This construction can withstand long hours of heat when built with heavy, good-quality steel. Steel stoves are sturdy workhorses serving as whole-home heating sources.
Cast-iron stoves also serve as excellent heat sources, but manufacturers create them using a different method. Workers use gaskets to join the separate iron parts. These gaskets can eventually wear out, and someone will need to rebuild the stove. Cast-iron stoves are usually more attractive than the average steel wood stove, which makes up for their gasket-wear issues.
One exception is the Napoleon cast-iron stove (1100C, 1400C). Napoleon builds its stoves from steel with cast iron parts bolted to the outside. These stoves possess the beauty of cast iron and the rugged construction of welded steel.
The aesthetic value of the wood stove you are considering is important. You, your family, and your friends will be gathering around the fire all winter. Also, you will have this purchase for many years. Choose a wood stove that you will enjoy seeing every day and using when the temperature drops.
Finding a beautiful wood stove is easy with the variety of styles and manufacturers to explore. Our wood stove selection is large, so take your time and check out the various features of each. Contact our pros at info@woodstovepro.com or 888-418-0005 with questions about the process .
As an experienced hearth professional, I can’t stress enough the importance of sizing your wood stove properly. Too small and your space is chilly in the dead of winter; too large and you’ll have to open the windows to keep from sweating.
The newer generations of wood stoves will use considerably less fuel and produce much more heat than older wood stoves. We measure heat using the British Thermal Unit, or BTU, and determine the best wood stove for you by the heat you need.
Most manufacturers rate their stoves in both BTU and square footage, but be aware that the square footage number is all but useless. The manufacturer can’t know your climate, windows or insulation, which allows them to judge how many square feet a wood stove can heat. This is why you will see a wide swing such as 500 to 2,500 square feet on brochures (a rather large variance!).
You should always use BTU to determine the proper sizing for your stove. A BTU calculator is useful to find the correct size for your situation. Log size and burn times are also considerations, but only after you have determined the proper BTU.
Think of your wood stove as real estate: location, location, location. Putting your wood stove in the right spot can be the difference between a warm and cozy home and a dissatisfied consumer.
Some houses will limit your choices and force you into finding creative ways of moving heat around your home. If you have the flexibility, place your wood stove in a central location. This will allow the heat to move easily throughout your home. Ceiling fans can also help distribute the stove's heat if a central location isn't possible.
Each stove is different in design and requirements, and sometimes this can change where you put your wood stove. An NFI certified professional can help you with the details.
Once you've determined the size of your wood stove or insert, and where you want to put it, you’ll need to have a safe chimney for venting. If you have an existing chimney, you should have it swept and inspected before using it. It may be that you may decide the location of your stove by your existing chimney.
An older, masonry fireplace can hold a new wood stove insert. The chimney is already there, and it provides a beautiful setting for the stove. You will need to line this existing chimney with the same size pipe as the collar on the wood stove insert. Not doing this properly can cause poor drafting and, possibly, chimney fires.
A freestanding wood stove will need a properly designed Class A solid fuel chimney system. It sounds like a daunting task, but an NFI Certified professional can help you with the design. WoodstovePro offers this free service and has designed hundreds of systems in its nearly 20 years of operation.
A new chimney system can cost 50 to 100% of the purchase price of the stove. Be sure to include this cost into your budget. You should also keep in mind your stove's location if you are installing a new chimney system. Finding a spot that requires less pipe will also lower your expenses.
Your chimney pipe needs a specific amount of space between it and anything that might catch fire. Learn more about clearance-to-combustibles requirements at Chimney Pipe 101: Frequently Asked Questions Answered.
Wood burning stoves haven't always been as efficient as they are today. During the 1980s, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) started regulating wood stoves. These regulations forced many manufacturers to invent ways to burn wood more efficiently.
The first attempt to follow the regulations included catalytic combustors. Combustors allowed the unburned smoke to combust at lower temperatures inside the wood stove. Unfortunately, combustors lower the efficiency of the stoves over time, and they have a short lifespan. Manufacturers continue using this technology in some wood stoves today.
The next version of wood stove technology involved injecting super-heated air into the unburned smoke. The smoke could now combust at higher temperatures. Wood stoves using this method are more efficient over their lifetime and don't require regular part replacement.
Be careful to choose EPA-rated wood stoves because the long-term cost savings on fuel can be significant. Some manufacturers, however, have their wood stoves rated under different categories, such as coal, to avoid EPA certification. Doing your homework on EPA regulations and certifications will help you make the best decision.
We don't want to talk you out of purchasing a wood stove - they are amazing additions to your home. We do, however, want you to have the facts before you buy.
Contact us at info@woodstovepro.com or 888-418-0005.
Written by Sean Summers, National Fireplace Institute (NFI) Master Hearth Certified Technician - WoodStovePro.com